Leaving Dushanbe towards Pamir. The first 100km are perfect. Then the mountain trip really starts. Only gravel roads of the worst sort. Getting not even half way to Khorogh we find a city in the middle of nowhere. Suddenly perfectly paved streets, roundabouts and even a traffic light! And - of course - a hotel. Not a first class one, but good enough for a night with other teams and a group of people who are doing the Pamir on the bicycle.